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 Post subject: Header Building
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:51 am
Posts: 45
I just thought I would share. I was starting to build a header for my 70s GTC Civic being restored for vintage production racing.
I started printing pieces on a 3d printer to help mock up the thing. This helps a lot. I can tell you what doesn't work pretty easy now without wasting a lot of time cutting and welding. They are reusable if you are careful pulling them apart. The parts are modeled after the 3" radius bends I have.
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I built a jig for cutting tubes for the collectors also

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The collector jig gets things close, but each tube is slightly different so requires some hand fitting. Burns has nothing to worry about, but it will do. The materials for the plastic bits are cheap. About $30 total for what I have made with many mistakes and I broke a few. The parts take a long time to print but they run without being watched so its OK.


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 3:39 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:33 am
Posts: 346
This is really interesting! Thank you for posting.
EZ


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 8:29 pm
Posts: 400
Location: 138 miles north of Blight
Nice job.


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2002 10:34 am
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Location: Wauwatosa, WI
Not trying to bust don-f's balls but not very one has access to a 3D printer. :D A friend with an H Prod car bought one of these sort of header kits. He was/is a happy camper.

https://www.penntoolco.com/icenginework ... mkEALw_wcB

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Have Fun ; )

David Dewhurst
CenDiv Milwaukee Region
F Prod #14


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 5:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 8:29 pm
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Location: 138 miles north of Blight
A friend pointed out you can buy a printer for half the price of that kit Dave
.


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:10 am 
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David Dewhurst wrote:
Not trying to bust don-f's balls but not very one has access to a 3D printer. :D A friend with an H Prod car bought one of these sort of header kits. He was/is a happy camper.

https://www.penntoolco.com/icenginework ... mkEALw_wcB


It was not intended to be a solution for everyone, its not an easy path. If you don't want a printer don't buy or borrow one! Its not for everyone I was not telling anyone they had to do it this way. There is a steep learning curve. Projects on the printer do not always go as planned, you are basically extruding plastic with a refined chinese toy, not the highest quality at all. The good news if you have a problem, there is probably at least a hundred other people that have had the same problem and already posted a possible solution online. The header parts have to be printed in PETG, its a bit more trouble than PLA. You do have to learn CAD (Fusion 360 is free for 3d printing files) and a slicing program to generate G code. I have a lot of pieces printed and there are things I would reinforce if doing them all again. Its just a process, but lucky mine is almost done design wise. If someone wants my files they are welcome to them, but really most are better off doing it from scratch if the diameter and radius is not the same. Once you do have the setup and skill though its not just header parts you can make. I made this AXA tool rail for my Boxford lathe over the weekend. No more shelves and drawers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4877281

The big thing with commercial header kits... Can you buy one for 1-3/8" diameter? No! What about when you need a different tube radius mine is 3" but I may need a few 2"? Maybe a 11.25 degree part instead of the standard 22.5 curve? The base commercial kit is very limited. What happens when you need more of one part and need none of the others? Break or step on one? I have done both more times than I wanted to. Neither solution is perfect commercial or DIY, but it works for me. The investment is not so much that when I am done playing I cant just set it on a shelf and let it set for a year or two until its needed again.


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 6:59 am
Posts: 1494
Location: Spring Hill, FL.
I buy the E bay header with the flange that fits, the Goose SS tube and a collector set . Set the collector where you want it and work from the head to the end . Lots of slices . You have to design with welding in mind or you screw yourself . So,often you need to make an area of the tubes , weld that section complete and move on. Oh, it changes shape as you weld .
30 hrs maybe

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Mike Ogren/Protech Racing, http://www.FWDracingguide.com http://www.ogren-engineering.com/ 352.428-8983 mogren@tampabay.rr.com


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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:34 am 
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Here is how the plastic pieces attach to the metal stubs for mockup. Its a dorman temporary freeze plug. I think the box of 5 was under $20.

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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:53 pm 
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One homemade merge collector. I need more welding practice and its not perfect but its will be a good enough start for now. It was good practice and I think there is only about $20 in materials. The preformed cone that's not attached yet cost more than the 2 u bends I used to make it. The backside in between all the tubes was a pain to get closed up good. I ended up using a mig and point and shoot. There was no room to do much else. let alone get a standard tig torch in there.

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 Post subject: Re: Header Building
PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 5:49 am 
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This is what I am thinking routing wise. Keeping the exhaust out from under the oil pan keeps it from getting crushed and keeps the heat away from the oil too. Waiting on a few bends from UPS this week. The plastic bits have some slop in them and sag in and down so the real routing will not be as close to the v belt pully like shown in the picture. I still like them though for figuring out the tube layout.
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